The question of which was the first monotheist religion would probably stun anyone, and it’s not strange, even the possibility that Zoroastrism is the first, it seems that not all the experts agree.

The question of which was the first monotheist religion would probably stun anyone, and it’s not strange, even the possibility that Zoroastrism is the first, it seems that not all the experts agree. The step to monotheism was a revolution, an advance in the settling of mystical thinking, a better explanation of the world, the human being, and of course, of God. Now there were not many deities, only one, a God that is an all powerful being, creator of the universe. The idea has stayed for over 3000 years and is reflected in the most strong religions that have lasted until today such as Islam and Christianity. After the zoroastrism was created, no other new religion was ¨¨polytheistic¨¨.

It was founded in ancient Persia where it was the official religion. Currently it has 2.6 million followers in Iran, India, Afghanistan, some other Central Asia countries and small comunities all around the world. Christianity has 2.1 billion and Islam has over 1.8 billion.

I go by car through the desert, I enjoy it, nearly all my moves in Iran are by night bus because Iran is very big but this time I want to see the landscape, it’s a new thing for me.

I see sand, a lot of sand, mountains of greyish colours and little tornados that rise before disappearing. I go to Chak Chak; the most important pilgrimage Zoroastrian place in Iran. During the annual festival from 14 to 18 June thousands of Zoroastrians come here.

The interior of this little fire temple of Pier-eSabz with a the non-stop flames at the back. The Zoroastrians pray towards light, this was the first light source know by civilization.

Zoroastrism is full of surprising things, it’s influence in later religions, it’s current state, it’s symbolisms, the relation with the elements and that even they’ve lost their scripts, the doctrine is still alive. It’s no doubt a set of solid ideas, and maybe that’s why it’s lasted so many centuries, it’s surprising that in Iran there are still followers even with the domination of Islam. Possibly it lasts for that reason, for being a truly advanced religion; monotheistic.

Zoroastrism is a dualist religion, this means that it understands there is an eternal fight between the good and the evil. I like the image that this shapes in my mind. Some of the teachings that I’ve liked the most are this:

– Happiness is a by product of a way of living. And happiness is for those who work for the happiness of others

– Good Thoughts, Good Words, Good Deeds.

– Who fears God, does not know God.

– God is Wisdom Love and Logic.

– Man is not sinful, fallen or depraved. No comparison with the Greek gods I talked about a few months ago.

Zarathustra was the founder of the religion. The majority of his writing has been lost, same as the language in which it was written, the Avestan.

Ehh… I hope they don’t check.

Back to Yazd we stop to see two more things. The first is a pigeon tower, this had to be one of the most disgusting places on earth. They built this towers for pigeons to live in. there were 4000. The objective was collecting the manure to fertilize fields… How bad would the smell be!

The second we see is an ice hose. Outside there are two small pools where ice was created during winter. The ice was stored here in a way that it was sold during summer. It was a luxurious possession.

Mybod city built with mud bricks.

Pomegranates, a symbol from the country.

A caravansary with small rooms that were rented by merchants. In the middle a place to unload the camels so they could rest.

The caravanseray has a carpet museum. This man is weaving one.

In the centre of the square there is a quanat that brings water from the mountains. Yazd is other of place that claim to be the longest living settlement on earth just like Damascus and Erbil. Marco Polo described it as a splendid city. Years later it became famous for its silk. I go to see the water museum, explains all imaginable about quanats that were underground chanels built to collect water from the mountains and take it to villages and cities. The quanats could be hundreds of kilometres long and more than 100 meters deep.

This is a badg-ir from the inside. The tower is divided in two, one to collect the fresh water and the other to take out the warm one. To demonstrate that it works, a guy threw a piece of paper that flew up pushed by the air.

In Yazd city and desert are the same colour. When I was in Iraq I had no time to see a temple in which Yazidsm religion was practised, a religion I didn’t know about that believes in reincarnation, archangels and other things. I regretted having lost the opportunity so this time I didn’t want to loose anything Zoroastrian near by. The first time I heard consciously about the religion was in Mumbai two years ago. Apart from the doctrine, what is more surprising for us that don’t know about the religion are the towers of silence. In Mumbai they are closed to non believers but here I have been able to visit them.

In the outskirts of Yazd, on top of two mounts are built these towers of silence. The Zoroastrians could not burn their dead as they’d contaminate the air. The could neither bury them as they’d contaminate the earth, sacred elements for them.

So they would leave the bodies here in the heights so the vultures would clean the bones. In Iran which is the opposite to Mumbai they don’t use the towers any more and they bury them in concrete coffins so the earth does not get dirty.

Without realizing my site seeing time in Iran is coming to an end. I need to go to Tehran to get Uzbekistan visa and I have no more days as the time to get to Turkmenistan is fixed.

I try to get a taxi to the bus station but I end up in a car that tries to sell me any kind of alcoholic drink. He takes me to the bus station for free.

In the bus station a guy comes to talk to me, by now this does not surprise me. While we chat I see another young guy come around but as I’m talking with the first guy he’s waiting. A bit later I see another more guy waiting around. This is too much! There is a queue!. I end up talking with all of them separately until I get to the bus. My seat buddy plays in the waterpolo team and has meet the Spanish team in competitions.

The bus starts moving.

Will Tehran be as chaotic as I imagine?

I’ll tell you soon.

Fernando